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Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area, PA

Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area, PA

Snow geese lift off at Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area.

Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area, PA

At the beginning of March I spent a day and a half at Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area in Pennsylvania, approximately a 2.5 hour drive from my home near Baltimore. This was my first visit to the area. I could not resist packing up my camera gear and heading north when a friend from one of my photo workshops sent me a great image she had just taken at Middle Creek of a huge flock of snow geese taking off from a farm field.  

Many years ago, 40,000 snow geese visited Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge in November.  I recall one afternoon during one of my photo workshops, while driving the Wildlife Loop we encountered thousands of snow geese in the impoundment and near the road. Periodically they would rise in unison from the ground sounding like a plane taking off.  They would fly overhead, circle, and return to the same spot that they had left. Not only did they do this once, but repeated the behavior several times more.  I have never forgotten that day.  But in recent years the number of geese at Chincoteague has dropped dramatically.  Many are now spending the winter at Bombay Hook and Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuges in Delaware with the geese feeding in the fields of the Delmarva Peninsula.  It is reported, seasonal counts have exceeded 200,000. 

At Middle Creek,  I was a reminded of the past scenes at Chincoteague but with even more birds.  During my visit on March 4th, there were 78,000 snow geese present with nearly 3,000 tundra swans.  Periodically, the number of birds present in the winter were as high as 200,000.

 

Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area, PA

Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area is located on the boarder of Lebanon and Lancaster Counties in Pennsylvania, north of the town of Lancaster in the middle of Amish Country.  Middle Creek is operated by the Pennsylvania Game Commission which is in charge of managing the wild bird and mammal populations at Middle Creek. This roughly 6000-acre wildlife management area is home to hundreds of species of birds and mammals. It is crucial for the hundreds of thousands of ducks, geese, and swans that visit during their spring and fall migration. 

A number of accommodations are available approximately 20-25 minutes from Middle Creek at the towns of Ephrata and Lititz, PA.

Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area, PA

At Middle Creek there is a Visitors Center with interpretive displays, an auditorium, and an observation area with feeders and views of Middle Creek Lake. Also there are a number of walking trails, several picnic areas, a vehicle tour loop, and areas set aside for fishing and hunting.  During the peak of the fall migration of waterfowl, to reduce disturbance of the birds, portions of the tour loop are closed to vehicles.  However, from 1 March until 30 September, vehicles are permitted on the interior, northern part of the tour route.

The Lake

The impoundment (lake) where the snow geese, tundra swans, and other waterfowl congregate was created by the construction of a dam in the early 1970s. It is quite shallow, with an average depth of only three feet.  Waterfowl attracted to the lake are those that prefer shallow water, compared to the diving ducks of the Chesapeake Bay. The deepest part of the lake is just above the dam where you might see herons, egrets and kingfishers. 

Visitors Center Pond

The Visitors Center pond during the spring and fall migrations is an excellent spot to observe at a distance mallards, black ducks, northern shovelers, ring-necked ducks, wood ducks, hooded mergansers and others. The “tree-house” type structure located behind the pond is a bat condominium intended to serve as a maternal colony for up to 6,000 bats.

Kleinfeltersville Rd

Just past the road to the Visitor Center along Kleinfeltersville Rd on the right is an open area with a relatively clear view of the lake.  When I was there, the cove was filled with snow geese in the morning and evening, with some at close range.  They shared the area with Tundra Swans.At times more geese joined the group filling the sky with birds before landing.  Eventually the main group of geese flushed and in mass, joined the other geese farther back in lake. To my surprise, the swans did not join them..  It may be a good spot to photograph flying geese at sunrise.  However, most visitors gather at Willow Point for sunrise.  

Willow Point Trail

The Willow Point Trail is very popular when the geese are present.  It is an easy 10-minute paved walk that leads visitors to an observation point overlooking a large portion of the 360-acre lake. During spring migration, there are days when the waterfowl put on incredible flight displays, moving from one section of the lake to another.  Occasionally, they would fly over the head of visitors before circling back to the lake.   It was suggested that they took off in response to a bald eagle that left its perch on a dead tree across the lake and headed towards the flock.

 

Waterfowl Propagation Areas

From the Observation Point Parking Lot past Willow Point, it is possible to see activity within the waterfowl propagation area which is off limits to people.  It is set aside to allow birds a place to nest, rest and feed unmolested year-round. In the spring and early summer you may see a variety of songbirds. Bird boxes attract tree swallows and bluebirds.  In the fields you may see bobolinks. 

On the southwestern portion of the lake there are three different types of nesting structures provided for waterfowl. Tire and tub structures provide a nesting areas for Canada geese.  The straw tubes are provided for mallards and black ducks, while the box style structures are for wood ducks. 

View from the interior loop road.

After observing the movement of geese from Willow Point and talking to other photographers, on my last afternoon in the area, I drove to the northern end of the interior tour loop where I thought the geese might be landing in a field close to the road.  There were a number of cars parked at the side of the road which suggested I was right.  I left may car at the end of the line and walked to where I had a clear view of the field and a number of geese on the ground. As I stood there photographing, other geese left the lake and joined the group.  More and more geese arrived with some on the ground taking off and flying overhead to a field behind me.  As sunset approached, the parade of geese leaving the lake continued with one  “V” formation after another heading in my direction. I had hoped they would pass in front of where the sun was setting but most did not.   However, I did capture a few images of lines of geese in front of the warm colors in the sky.

I plan to return in future years.  Great wildlife photography opportunities.

May/June 2021 Heron Rookery Photo Project

May/June 2021 Heron Rookery Photo Project

May/June 2021- Heron Rookery Photo Project 

From 24 April until 18 June 2021 I was on the road.  One of my projects involved documenting the activity in a heron colony populated by a variety of wading birds–Great and Snowy Egrets, Black-Crowned Night Herons, Tri-color & Little Blue Herons, and a few Glossy Ibis.  The rookery was in a large marsh on a ridge where low shrubs grow such as Bayberry and Wax Myrtle.  Nests were low and among tangled branches that help protect the nests, eggs, and offspring from predators.  It was a perfect locations with little chance of flooding and rich waters nearby with abundant food to provide for the growing youngsters.  

Photographing colonial birds in a rookery setting requires a very careful approach as to not negatively effect breeding success.

Herring Gulls

Surrounding the heron colony in the tall stands of salt-meadow hay Herring Gulls nested.  They chose a perfect location since they could swoop over the rookery harassing the herons and attempting to grab eggs and hatchlings. On several occasions, I saw a gull dive down and hit exposed heron.  There was evidence that high water flooded the lower part of the marsh and destroyed some of the nests.

Precautions

I took great care to minimize any disturbance of the nesting birds to avoid interfering with nesting behavior, possibly causing displacement of eggs or the herons abandoning nests. I keep. my visits infrequent, limited in time, and when temperatures were moderate.  Since my intent was to document natural behavior and interactions between individuals, I would have been foolish and unethical to disturb the birds.

My route through the marsh was difficult since I had to avoid soft mud, holes, and tidal guts.   I benefited from past experience reading the marsh and noting what grasses and substrate would support me.  

Dressed in camouflage, I approached the colony slowly and indirectly.  I photographed from a  low position, sitting or kneeling on the soggy, water-saturated ground.  Once in place, I  minimized my movement.  It was usually distant noise that would cause the birds to flush from their nests -- the rumble of trucks, planes, boats, and construction projects..  Luckily, the birds quickly returned to their nests and young.  

Equipment

Lenses primarily used included my 200-500 mm and 80-400 mm Nikon lenses.with my D500 and D850 Nikon cameras attached. The telephotos were necessary to keep my distance from my subjects and yet isolate them.  Zoom lenses provided for flexibility.  As the birds moved and interacted, I could adjust my focal length to capture the range of motion.  Most shots were taken using a tripod with a sturdy ball head or gimbal mount.  I used waterproof sleeves over the base of the tripod legs to protect the joints from damaging grit and corrosive brackish water.

                                  

Changes from May into June

During May, many herons displayed breeding plumage and bright colors around the eyes and bill.  A few still were engaged in mating, courting and nest building, with some birds carrying sticks.  In mid-June, courtship feathers were less obvious and the facial colors had faded a bit. There were eggs in some nests and young birds in others.

Capturing action

One of my goals was to capture arial fighting and aggressive behavior as birds landed in the bushes and jockeyed for position to access their nests. I carefully observed the colony concentrating on areas where there was more activity and less tolerant birds.  Aggressive actions included nipping, stabbing, feather pulling, hackle raising, or just landing on the back of an opponent.

I had the best luck capturing the arial fights when using my 80 – 400 mm lens and shorter focal lengths since it was nearly impossible to predict exactly where and when the action would occur.

                   

Focus Difficulties

If the birds were flying with sky in the background, I focused using a small group of focus sensors. When multiple subjects were involved, I selected an f-stop that offered a bit more depth of field than usual such as an F11 or 16.  But to freeze action with high shutter speeds, I had to use higher ISOs than I typically prefer (often 1000 or 1250).  When the birds were perched on branches or were landing,  I often used a single focus point over the bird's eye.

With auto focus, I had problems with the sensor locking on branches and leaves, not the bird.  Sometimes manual focus was required. Because the nest were located deep within shrubs, I struggled to get clear shots of the birds landing and interacting without branches, grass, shadows or the wings blocking their faces.

Final Thoughts

Most folks find marsh foreboding with muck, unpleasant smells, and pesky flies and mosquitoes.  For me, they are marvelous places filled life and new things to discover.  When  involved with projects like this one where I am deep within a marsh, I find solace and a connection with nature.

Marshes are critical ecosystems that need our protection, not destruction  They are highly productive and a haven for wildlife. They trap sediments and remove nutrients and toxins from the water that can clog our waterways, poison wildlife, and deplete life-giving oxygen. 
Urban Wildlife Photo Project 2

Urban Wildlife Photo Project 2

Urban Wildlife Photo Project

Raccoon Eyes

Overview

As mentioned in my last newsletter, in recent months I have reconnected with an old friend who has been allowing me to photograph on her property.  She lives nearby and owns several acres of land with an open area, vegetable garden, flower beds, woods, and a pond by the house with aquatic plants, dragon flies and frogs. She has two permanent bird feeder locations that are near bushes and tall trees. One is located at the far end of the yard with the other near her house. Bushes and tall trees were nearby both. They provide cover from which the animals could safely approach the feeders as well as escape if threatened by hawks, foxes, or other predators.  When the weather allowed from late April until today, I would spend several hours early in the morning or late in the afternoon photographing in her yard.  In July when, temperatures soared into the mid to high 90s and humidity rose feeder activity slowed and was limited to the cooler times of the day and after sunset. The drop in activity seemed to continue into September.

Red Fox

Red Fox emerging from woods.

Initial setup

In late April, I began photographing at the bird feeder nearest the house.  It was close enough that I could photograph from my friend’s dining room window.  In addition to standard bird seed and suet feeders, we hung a thistle sock on a branch to attract gold and purple finches.  The non-melt suet, that could withstand the summer heat, attracted the small woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches.  At times we added meal worms to the mix, which seemed to be a favorite of the Carolina Wrens.  The bird feeder at this location was elaborate with arms and multiple hooks from which to hang a variety of feeders. I added a few natural perches for the birds to land on, but to my disappointment, they seemed to prefer sitting on the iron appendages of the feeder stand. After several days shooting, I concluded that the way the sunlight hit the area was not ideal for it cast unwanted shadows on the birds.  In addition, the bushes behind the feeders were very close making it difficult to blur the background even with the lens wide open and a shallow depth of field. It became even more distracting when hit by bright sunlight.

Raccoon eating apple put out to attract deer.

 


Second location

Adaptability, perseverance, and patience are all keys to successfully photographing animal behavior.  When I failed to get satisfactory results at my first location, I shifted my attention to activity around the permanent feeder at the far end of the yard. Nearby, there was a bird bath and kiddy pool filled with water to attract wildlife on hot dry days.  Since I did not want to photograph the birds at the feeder, I created what I have affectionately call my animal jungle jim. With logs, tree roots, branches, other items that I collected roadside and from nearby woods, I created a setup where I hung additional feeders and provided a safe place for the birds to perch.  At key locations on the logs, I smeared peanut butter and suet.  For the squirrels, raccoons, and jays, I added unsalted, raw peanuts to the wildlife buffet.  After watching squirrels for an extended period of time, I am convinced that they are smart and agile and that very few bird feeders are squirrel-proof. 

Black-capped Chickadee

Black-capped Chickadee with the sun breaking through trees behind it.

Post to attract woodpeckers and the birds with suet block nearby.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Urban Wildlife Photo Project (cont.)

Periodically, I changed the arrangement to vary the background in my photos.  For variety, I added a vertical 4-foot-long tree trunk cemented in a bucket that I could move to different locations.  I baited it with a peanut butter/suet mix and placed a cage filled with suet nearby hoping woodpeckers and other birds would first perch on the trunk before jumping to the feeder. I added a small tree to the mix for birds to perch in, hoping to vary the appearance of my images.

Carolina wren on post.

Downey woodpecker on side of tree trunk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Frog escaping from backyard pond.

Dragonfly at pond

 

A couple days when activity at the feeders was low, I switched my attention to smaller subjects, dragonflies and frogs. But I only had my Nikon 200 to 500 mm lens with me instead of my 200 mm macro lens designed for close focusing.  When I moved forward towards the subject to increase magnification to what I desired, the autofocus could not lock on it.  Remembering a similar situation in the past, I switched to manual focus and discovered I could get closer to the subject and still keep it in focus.  For the dragonfly, I had to avoid my shadow falling on it.  I took advantage of the fact that if it flew away, it typically returned to the same spot. For the frog photos, I had to be careful to stay low and move slowly.  The biggest problem was finding a camera angle where the background was satisfactory.

 

Gray squirrel peaking around tree trunk.

 

Wildlife on Florida’s East Coast – Part 1

Wildlife on Florida’s East Coast – Part 1

Florida Sandhill Cranes at Orlando Wetlands

This is Part 1 of a report on the photography along Florida’s East Coast.

The last two weeks of February I flew to the East Coast of Florida to scout for a future photo workshop in March of 2021 or 2022.  In the past, I have conducted several workshops in Florida but on the west coast and in the Florida Everglades.  This time, I spent 12 days visiting 18 locations along the east coast from St. Augustine to Boca Raton.  Sites included wildlife refuges, state parks, zoos, gardens, and wastewater reclamation wetlands.  I spent the majority of time at locations where wildlife was abundant and accessible.  At other sites, I limited my visit to just enough time to evaluate the area for inclusion in a workshop.
 
Because of my busy lecture schedule, my visit was limited to late February.  Even though it is a month earlier than I plan to offer a workshop, wintering birds were present and nesting was beginning. Breeding birds were carrying sticks, constructing nests, fighting over territory, mating, and displaying.  Many wading birds displayed nuptial plumes and the color changes that come with breeding.  In a few nests, chicks were present. In late March and early April, heron rookeries are much more active with screeching, hungry chicks and parents busy feeding in order to care for their young.

Sandhill Crane Feeding in field. Orlando Wetlands.

Snowy egret photographed at Orlando Wetlands

Snowy egret photographed at Orlando Wetlands

Two sites covered by this newsletter are Orlando Wetlands and Blue Heron Water Reclamation Facility and Wetland Area.  These are natural and man-made wetlands fed by reclaimed wastewater, creating an environment beneficial to wildlife.  Both are within a short drive from Titusville. Florida has a number of these sites with some open to visitation by birders and photographers and others are closed to the public.  Some encourage visitation with boardwalks for easy access and viewing of wildlife.  Several have bird rookeries within their boundaries. 

Limpkin with snail at Orlando Wetlands.

 
What is reclaimed waste water?  It is raw wastewater that has passed through a sewage treatment plant to remove solids, toxic contaminants, and some nutrients.  To kill pathogens, the waste is treated with chorine which dissipates before entering the wetlands.  This “reclaimed,” non-potable water is sometimes discharged into waterways or dedicated to uses like watering lawns and other purposes, but not as drinking water.    However, in some cases when discharged to waterways, the nutrient loading may be high enough to create choking algal blooms which can lower oxygen levels as the algae dies and is decomposed by bacteria.   Low dissolved oxygen in waterways can produce “dead zones” where aquatic animals cannot live.  On the other hand, when discharged into man-made or natural wetlands, the marsh plants take up the phosphorous and nitrogen and flourish, creating environments suitable for wildlife.  For sites using wetland treatment of waste, they are proactively managed and the water tested.  Their condition is monitored to benefit flora, fauna, and biochemical processes.  In simple terms, at both Orlando and Blue Heron Wetlands, sections of natural or man-made marsh populated with native aquatic plants are impounded and surrounded by dikes with provisions for adjusting the water level as needed.  Wetland plants support large populations of tiny aquatic organisms that form the basis of a food chain that supports higher organisms.  This rich supply of food acts as a magnet attracting wildlife. In addition, wetlands provide shelter and nesting habitat for birds and serve as a nursery for aquatic organisms.  

Double-crested Cormorant at Blue Heron Wetlands Facility

In the case of Orlando Wetlands, you can walk along the extensive series of dike roads. At certain times, you can take a tram tour of the facility. In the case of Blue Heron Water Reclamation Wetland Area, you must sign-in & out at their administrative office on site. When I was there, you could drive selected dike roads that provided great opportunities for photography with animals at close range and use to human presence. However, for all locations that I mention in this and the following newsletter, you must check current conditions and regulations. 
 
A number of images in this newsletter are labeled with the location where they were taken.  I first visited Orlando Wetlands about a half hour from Titusville.  I walked along the dike roads expecting wildlife to be far away and intolerant of my presences.  I was pleasantly surprised that many animals just ignored me and went about their normal activities. Alligators, limpkins, ibis, egrets, gallinules, and sandhill cranes were within easy camera range for photography.  After conducting several December photo workshops at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge where thousands of sandhill cranes spend their time from mid-November to mid-February, I was surprised to see several cranes feeding in the first field I encountered. These Florida Sandhill Cranes are resident birds that nest in Florida and don’t migrate. They are omnivorous eating seeds, insects, frogs, mice and other organisms abundant in the marsh.  Near Viera Wetlands, I actually saw a crane feeding in someone’s front lawn in the middle of a development. Later I discovered that they can be found on golf courses, parks, and in other public places. 

Wood Stork sitting on branch at Orlando Wetland.

To visit Blue Heron Wetlands on weekends, you must make prior arrangements.  In general many of the locations I visited were closed on certain days of the week.  Those providing early entry for photographers who have purchased photo passes, such as St. Augustine’s Alligator Farm and Gator World’s rookery near Orlando, limit this privilege to certain days of the week or particular months, unfortunate for me February was not included.  It is critical to check each location before visiting for rules, open dates, and conditions.  For example, a favorite of many photographers, Green Cay Wetlands was closed to visitation due to renovations starting in November 2019.  I had visited it several years ago and was impressed with its long boardwalk and large population of nesting birds.

Great Blue Heron at Blue Heron Reclamation Wetlands exposing underside of wings.

In following newsletters, I will cover Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge and Cape Canaveral National Seashore plus several other areas along Florida’s east coast. The pelican/spoonbill photo at the opening of this newsletter was shot on Merritt Island one morning during my recent visit.

Great Blue Heron resting at Blue Heron Reclamation Facility.

Great Blue Heron at Blue Heron Reclamation Facility.

Red-shouldered Hawk perched in tree on Blue Heron Reclamation Wetland.

Purple Gallinule Feeding ay Blue Heron Reclamation Wetlands walking on vegetation.

Purple Gallinule Feeding ay Blue Heron Reclamation Wetlands.

Tricolor Heron stretching on Merritt Island NWR Subject of next blog.

 

White Pelicans and Spoonbills at Merritt Island NWR.

Brazilian Pantanal Photo Tour

Brazilian Pantanal Photo Tour

Brazilian Pantanal photo tour–sights, photo tips, equipment, challenges.

I have been to the Brazilian Pantanal twice in the past, once on a scouting trip and most recently conducting a photo tour. In both cases, I worked with an excellent naturalist/guide/photographer who I have known for more that twenty years, Alejandro Ronchetti of KÚntur Expeditions based in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Hyacinth Macaws are the largest macaws and are rare.

Hyacinth Macaw

On this past trip, we flew from Dulles Airport non-stop to São Paulo and then on to the city of Cuiabá where the tour started. After a good night’s rest, we left the city in a van and headed southward, stopping briefly in Poconé for supplies before entering the Transpantaneira Highway. During the tour, we stayed overnight on two eco-friendly ranches and at the hotel Pantanal Norte at Porto Jofre. Along the Transpantaneira Highway, it was relatively easy to spot birds and other wildlife. We stopped frequently to take photos. The number of birds seen on the trip was unbelievable with remarkable numbers of snail kites and hawks in addition to many colorful birds. At one of the larger bridges, we had the opportunity to photograph a large assortment of birds–limpkins, spoonbills, herons, kingfishers, anhinga, and other birds feeding in the marsh below.

Our first stay was at the Pouso Alegre Ranch. Although the rooms were modest, the food was good, and wildlife abundant. At dawn, just outside our room were agoutis (small rodents), Southern Lapwings, rheas, toucans, and several curassows. Close to the lodge was a marsh and lagoon that straddled the road and was populated with a large number of herons, kites, kingfishers, and hawks. During the day, caiman congregated at the end of the lagoon and sun themselves on the road. One of the most unusual birds was the capped heron with a striking blue bill that was feeding along the bank in the vicinity of a a number of caiman. As we explored the ranch roads, we had the opportunity to photograph coatimundi, brocket deer, ibis, and jabiru storks. The tapir we were hoping to see eluded us, leaving only it tracks behind in the mud.

Sayaca Tanager is a beautiful small bird eating berries.

Sayaca Tanager

After 3 days on the ranch, our next stop was the riverside hotel at Porto Jofre where we had the best chance to see jaguar. The accommodations were modern and very nice with an assortment of birds just outside our rooms– buff-necked ibis, hyacinth macaws, caracaras, chaco chachalacas, toucans, just to name a few. Behind the rooms was a boardwalk leading past giant lilies and other marsh species. Twice a day for 3 days we navigated the Cuiabá River and its tributaries at Parque Estadual Encontro das Aguas (Meeting of the Waters) State Park in search of jaguar and other wildlife species. Here jaguars are protected and openly hunt spectacled caimans, capybaras, tapirs, and other animals along the riverbanks.  This magnificent cat is the largest in South America and is a proficient swimmer and with its strong jaws can easily crush the skulls of its prey. Although never witnessing a kill as we had hoped, we had several opportunities to photograph jaguar relaxing and walking along the riverbank. In each case, the light was low and the animal was often in heavy shade requiring ISO settings of 1250 and above. Our boat was stable and large enough for the four of us plus Alex and our photo gear. With care, I was even able to use my 600 mm, F4 lens mounted on a tripod to photograph jaguar and small birds. Our boat driver was proficient positioning us for the best photos and was in radio communication with other guides, so when a jaguar was spotted, we knew the location. In most cases, when a jaguar was located, 4 or 5 boats would eventually arrive at the location and anchor at a distance off shore to observe the cat that seemed to be oblivious to their presence. Later in the season, when there are more tourists, I suspect the number of boats would be greater. Besides jaguar, we photographed other wildlife including giant otters, capybaras, caiman, yellow-billed terns, a pied lapwing, kingfishers, and more.

The Jaguar population is very health in the Pantanal.

Jaguar

Our last stop in the Pantanal was two days at Fazenda Santa Tereza ranch. Here we encountered a crab eating fox, hummingbirds, yellow-chevroned parakeets, a rufous-tailed jacamar, and other birds at feeder and near the lodge. From outside our rooms and from a scaffold near the nest, we could watch a pair of jabiru interacting and fortifying their nest. We were taken to see a great potoo at its daytime roost. It was so well camouflaged as part to the tree, that it would have been nearly impossible to see without a guide. Each day we explored the river adjacent to the inn by boat and photographed black-collared and black hawk, ringed kingfisher, and herons, snatching up fish tossed in the water.. During our exploration of the river, we photographed anhinga, a sun bittern, jabiru storks, river otters and a spectacular sunset. The Pantanal was well worth visiting and I would love to return.

Added to the Pantanal trip, we had an excursion to Chapada dos Guimarães, a national park with picturesque tablelands located 65 km northwards from Cuiabá. The highlight of the visit was the Veu da Noiva Waterfall from where we could admire the tablelands and one of the highest waterfalls of the park. Of particular interest was the opportunity to photograph red-and-green macaws flying in front of the falls and canyon walls. The Pousada do Parque Lodge where we stayed was lovely with many birds visiting the grounds early and late in the day. It was the perfect place to relax at the end of the tour. However for serious landscape photography, the park was disappointing since visitors only have access between 9 AM and 5 PM, not the best time for extraordinary light and dramatic images.

On a previous trip, we flew from Cuiabá to Campo Grande and drove to the town of Bonita with access to the Southern Pantanal. The highlight of our visit was the huge sink-hole, Buraco das Araras, where red and green macaws nest. Loved it.

Sun bitterns are found in the Brazilian Pantanal.

Sun Bittern

Lighting challenges:

The variety of birds seen was mind-boggling but lighting was not always optimal. Although on the road early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the light was warm and soft, we were also in the field when the sun was higher in the sky and the light was harsh, washing out colors, obscuring details with dark shadows, and contributing to distracting backgrounds. Since I wanted to capture the range of animals for a program on the Pantanal, I took chances on shots that required more editing than I prefer to minimize problems. The best photo opportunities during non—prime hours were when a light layer of clouds softened the light or when the subject was in open shade. However in the later case, images tend to appear flat and colors slightly muted. To compound the periodic lighting issues when shooting in jungle or forests, there were vines, branches, light colored grasses and other vegetation either in front of subjects or contributing to an undesirable background that could not be avoided. But remember, this is the real world and not a photo studio.

Equipment:

It is always a challenge to transport camera equipment on the plane. I use a Gura Gear light-weight photo backpack but it appears large on my small frame. I am always concerned bout having the bag taken away from me and placed with checked luggage. Airline personnel have challenged me on several occasions, but they reluctantly allowed me to keep the bag once I explained the delicate nature and cost of the contents.

On this trip, I took my Nikon 600 mm, VR, F4 lens. It is quite heavy and large. When shooting from a car window on a large beanbag or on a tripod, the lens is wonderful for photographing small subjects and I will continue to use it for these applications. But from the confines of the van with other photographers, the lens was difficult to maneuver and nearly impossible to hand-hold. When exiting the van and mounting the lens on a tripod, I lost precious time positioning the lens and missed a shots I may have gotten with a smaller, lighter rig . Today, its large front element and high light gathering capacity is less critical than in the past now that high end cameras such as Nikon’s D5 perform fairly well at high ISOs, producing less noise (similar in appearance to film grain) as in the past. Note: Problems with noise is magnified when underexposing an image. After observing the ease of handling and quality of several lighter and less expensive zoom telephoto lenses carried by fellow travelers, I just purchased Nikon’s 200-500 mm zoom lens for increased flexibility. Although lighter that the 600 mm, this lens is still not a feather-weight. We will see how well it performs on my next photo excursion.

Red and Green Macaws flying in front of a waterfalls.

Red and Green Macaws

Besides the afore mentioned lens, I took with me a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod with Arca Swiss head, 35 to 70 mm zoom lens, an 80 to 400 mm zoom lens, 62 and 77 mm polarizers, Nikon D5 and D4s cameras, spare batteries, charger, empty beanbag, 32 and 64 G fast compact flash cards, Apple MacBook Air computer and two Seagate Backup Plus 2 T portable drives for image storage. For the Pantantal, insect repellant and sunscreen are a must. Dehydration is always a consideration when spending hours in the sun on an open boat so carry an adequate supply of water. I have a water bottle with a mister attachment. Not only can I drink water from the bottle but I can also spray myself with water to cool down quickly.

Timing of my trip:

On both trips to the Pantanal, I arrived in late June and stayed until mid-July. The water level is still dropping after the wet months. Less bank is exposed compared to later in the season, making animals a little more difficult to see and photograph. Accommodations in the Pantanal are limited, so it is imperative to make reservations early. Later in the tourist season, available rooms in the best locations are more difficult to find.

Flight info:

I booked my flights to São Paulo and Cuiabá on-line directly with United Airline (the flight to Cuiabá on GOL, a partner airline). I was issued both boarding passes at the United Airline desk and our bags were checked in all the way to Cuiabá. Therefore when I retrieved my checked bags after my US flight and passed through customs, I could immediately re-check them for the remaining flight.

Coming home there was 10 hour lay-over in São Paulo Airport, so checking the bags right after the arrival of the domestic flight was not possible. Therefore we rented small rooms on a hourly basis at hotel in the airport called FastSleep. This allowed us to survive the layover comfortably, being able to nap, catch-up on e-mail, exercise by walking throughout the terminals, and pick up last minute gifts. After observing the experience of one of my fellow travelers, next time I will reserve a room using Booking.com as opposed to dealing with the hotel directly.

Great egret diving after fish in the Pantanal

Great egret

 

Tips for international photo tours

Tips for International photo tours.  Preparation.

Arctic Tern

Arctic Tern 

Documents

If you don’t have a passport you will need to apply for one to visit countries outside the U.S.. If you have one already, check the renewal date several months before departure to be sure it covers the dates of travel. For passport info visit https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/passports.html

For visa requirements for the country to be visited, go to the country’s consulate website for requirements and fees. In the past I have successfully used a visa service called Travisa, www.travisa.com in the past and recently recommended them to a friend who also employed their service. In all cases, they were quite helpful answering questions about the visa process and application and review your application before delivering them to the respective embassy. Since you are sending your passport to them to hand-carry to the country’s embassy in Washington, D.C. and returning the documents to you, it is critical that the service is reliable.

Travel Alerts

Check the following websites, US State Department website (www.state.gov), the CDC http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel and the World Health Organization (http://www.who.int) for travel advisories for the regions to be visited. The state department site has passport forms and other travel info as well as a convenient travelers check-list https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/go/checklist.html. Be sure to photo copy travel documents and store separately from your originals in case the originals are lost or stolen.

Consider signing up for the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). They send travel and security updates about your destination and being register can help them contact you in the case of an emergency. https://step.state.gov/step/

Credit Cards:

Notify your credit card company either on-line or via phone of your upcoming travels so your charges from your new location will not be rejected as suspicious. I recommend carrying a travel wallet with protection from theft and with RFID blocking in the lining so scanners can’t read the radio-frequency tags embedded in your credit cards and passport. Distribute you cash in several locations in the event that you loose or have your wallet stolen.

Whale off shore of Iceland

Whale off shore of Iceland

TSA Pre-check

If you travel frequently, you may want to consider enrolling in TSA pre-check. Go to the TSA’s website www.tsa.gov to begin the enrollment process on-line. Afterwards you will have to go to a TSA center to participate in a 10-minute interview and fingerprinting.   TSA pre-check status allows U.S. citizens and lawful permanent residents to go through an expedited TSA screening process if available. Those travelers will be allowed to leave on their shoes, light outerwear, and belt. You can keep your laptop in its case and compliant liquids or gels in your carry-ons. When registered, you receive a TSA number that you report when you purchase your airline tickets. In most cases, TSA pre-check will be printed on your boarding pass allowing you to use the TSA pre-check line at the security check- point at the airport. At the airport, a TSA pre-check line may or may not be available depending on availability of staff and security level of alert. If available, the TSA security check is expedited — lines are shorter and passage through TSA security screening is faster.

Currency exchange

Check common policies for acceptance of credit cards in the areas to be visited and the tipping policy. It is best to carry some local currency for tips, small purchases, taxis, sometimes airport taxes, etc. You can exchange dollars at the local airport when you arrive at your destination or at local banks, or money exchange centers but there is usually a higher service charge and less favorable exchange rates than if you can obtain the currency in the U.S. If you belong to AAA, they have a service whereby you can obtain foreign currency before your trip for a reasonable fee or no fee if $200 or more is exchanged. In Italy when we were running out of local currency and had problems finding a bank willing to exchange US dollars for Euros.

Health check-up

Several months before traveling overseas, it is a good idea to investigate what is required in terms of inoculations, etc. I visit Johns Hopkins Travel Clinic in Baltimore for needed shots, medication, and health adversaries. Locally you can obtain similar services through organizations such as Passport Health, https://www.passporthealthusa.com/travel-medicine. In some cases, you may have to be given multiple injections over a period of time. Some malaria medicines require taking pills several weeks prior to travel. With Johns Hopkins, they maintain a record of my visits and prepare a shot record to take with me. Also they provide a summary of the health concerns for the area. Note: Some countries require documentation indicating that you have received certain vaccinations, for example Yellow Fever.

Atlantic puffin.

Atlantic puffin.

Prescription medicines       

Make sure have enough of your prescription medicines to cover trip and any delays. Keep them in your hand-carry baggage. Have had meds stolen from check luggage. If you need an item refilled in a foreign country, you may have difficulties and may be required to visit a local doctor for a prescription. 

Emergency evacuation related to health

MedjetAssist is a global and domestic medical transport company with several membership programs. https://medjetassist.com/ It’s not a health insurance program for travelers but if you are hospitalized 150 miles or more from home, Medjet will arrange air medical transport back to your hospital of choice in your home country — all you pay is your basic plan membership fee.

You might wish to consider purchasing basic travel insurance offered by companies such as Travel Guard http://travelguard.com. Depending on the program, they cover costs related to in-hospital medical care, lost luggage, travel delays, trip cancellation, etc. Prices and plans vary according to benefits and the cost of the trip. It is best to check with your personal health insurance company for their policy regarding paying for overseas treatment and hospitalization.

Oystercatcher along coast of Iceland with chick.

oystercatcher

 

On the plane

Stay hydrated and avoid alcohol. Walk or exercise your legs when possible to maintain good circulation and avoid possible blood clots. There are compression socks that are supposed to help.

Relief for long delays between flights

On occasion, I have had excessive delays between flights   If you belong to an airline club such as United’s, at some airports they have a lounge with personalized travel assistance, Wi-Fi, beverages, snacks, and most important, it is a much more pleasant environment in which to wait than sitting in the public areas of the airport terminal.

For my upcoming trip to Brazil, I have approximately a 10-hour delay between my domestic and international flight heading back to the U.S. I discovered that within the airport there is a “hotel” with small sleeping quarters where you can rest in privacy while waiting for your flight. At Sao Paulo airport, it’s called “FastSleep” and you pay by the hour.

Equipment check

I typically have my camera cleaned and serviced at least twice a year if used heavily particularly before a major trip. Since I am a Nikon user and Nikon Professional Services member, I send my cameras to Nikon’s New York Service and Repair Center. Using my NPS number, I receive expedited service. It may cost a bit for a “once over” on your camera periodically but it is worth it when you have invested several thousand dollars in a trip. Note: I always carry at least one spare camera. (If camera sent for cleaning, check your setting when the camera is returned. Often set to defaults.

Carry-on luggage

I travel on the airlines with my camera gear loaded in a Gura Gear light-weight backpack and place my computer in a rolling computer bag. Chargers, power strips, filters, tripod ball head, etc., I place in my checked luggage with the more delicate items placed in a small padded backpack that can double a field pack. TSA locks may help against in experienced thieves but do not guarantee absolute protection from others and less reputable TSA inspectors. I have had items removed from my luggage more than once.

 

Hummer stalled in mid-air

Hummingbird

Saving digital files while traveling.

I carry my Apple laptop computer, card reader, and two potable Seagate 2 T drives. When possible, I transfer image files from my compact flash cards each evening after shooting to my portable drives. I don’t save the files on the computer itself since they consume too much room. When possible, I quickly review the images on Adobe Lightroom. Once assured that the camera is working properly and my technique is solid, I then put the cards aside for reformatting in the camera. I usually carry a number of compact flash cards and cardholders to store cards in case transfer of images is not possible. I have card-holders color coded for cards needing to be transferred and others of a different color for cards where the images have been transferred and are ready to be re-formatted in the camera where they will be used. Any scheme that works for you is fine.

International calling plans

I add an international calling/data plan to my cell phone for the month I will be traveling. This provides an economical way to communicate the event of an emergency, delays in travel, urgent business, etc. If you have the Whatsapp application on your phone, you can make long distance calls or send text messages via Internet for free. Recently I used it for the first time and was impressed that the transmission was so clear.

Common Gallinule stretching.

Common Gallinule